by Nye Simmons

While many perspective control (PC) lenses from multiple manufacturers are available to users of the 35mm format, the best known and most widely available are the Canon series in 24mm, 45mm, and 90mm focal lengths, and the Nikon line with newly announced lenses in 24mm, 45mm and 85mm focal lengths (Nikon's older versions, perhaps more readily available at this time, are available in 28mm and 85mm focal lengths). These lenses allow you to easily make composite images without having to invest in panorama gear. 

 

Panoramic image made by stitching two horizontal images together

 

PC lenses (tilt/shift or shift only) have a housing that allows the user to move the front elements and barrel sideways or up and down in order to take advantage of their large image circles. Shifting the lens projects a different part of the larger image onto the sensor. The lens “sees” the entire image but the sensor only sees whatever slice is projected onto it – the rest is wasted space unless used in this fashion. Because the camera is stationary, and the images overlap, aligning the frames is usually quite easy if the camera itself is level. LEVEL is the key word. Being off level makes the stitch process a huge headache.


Why Stitch?

First and foremost, you can combine two horizontal images into a traditional panorama format with an aspect ratio of 1:2½. This is precisely the aspect ratio of the traditional 4x10” sheet film cameras, and in between the traditional 6x12 and 6x17 cm roll-film cameras. The aspect ratio is pleasing and allows cropping to other sizes. Those panorama shooters who switched to digital early on had only two choices, give it up, or stitch.

 

Secondly, you effectively double your sensor real estate. A 13mp sensor effectively becomes 26mp. While 13mp is overkill for most publications, the larger file will give improved print quality at larger display sizes.

 

Third, use of three vertical images to make a horizontal may allow an image that otherwise would not exist. This happened to me at Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range just recently. My widest angle was a 24mm, and the comp I wanted wasn’t possible with that lens. Stitching to the rescue, as the accompanying image illustrates. I haven’t calculated the effective focal length, but it’s wide.

 

 

Fourth, there are subtle differences in the image created by combining two or more frames together from the one created with a single frame and a wider angle lens. For the photographer looking for a creative edge this enhancement should not be ignored.

   

Before You Stitch

Previsualizing your final image is key, particularly if creating a horizontal image from verticals. Be certain your camera is level. If you aren’t going to rotate the tripod base, then a level base is less critical, but the camera itself has to be as level as possible, or a skewed image will result. You will then have severe limitations on how to crop your final image. Shift your lens freely and rotate the tripod head to plan where the boundaries of your image lie. Compose loosely – it’s hard to tell where the final edges will be when combined into a composite. The center image may not be a stand alone image because it has to be off center a little, but one of your images should be pretty strong by itself. If not, rethink the composition. Horizontal panos in more traditional forms can usually be made from two images because there is enough overlap. Two such images end to end would give you a 1:3 aspect ratio, so you lose some in the process. Usually there isn’t so much softness at the edge that it becomes apparent in the finished image. Not so true when stitching verticals into horizontals. Three images overlap about 50% each, so you are using much more of the sweet spot and avoiding two stitched edges down the middle of the finished image.

 

Making the Exposures

Auto “anything” won’t work. Your meter will go nuts when you shift the lens and give wildly inaccurate readouts, and auto white balance will shift your color on you also. Set your meter to manual, pick a white balance that you like (5000k is approximately daylight) and make your exposures based on the lens being at neutral, i.e., centered. This ensures that each frame is exposed and color-balanced identically, and the locked-in exposure settings are correct for the shifted frame. You can always adjust color balance during or after raw conversion.   

 

 

How to Stitch

Until Photoshop CS3 came out, stitching was a bit of a pain, at times almost impossible. Often the earlier versions of photomerge wouldn’t combine the images properly, or at all. This left manual superimposition and use of masks to blend to exposures together. Several proprietary programs came on the market to accomplish this task, apparently pushing Adobe to improve their product. Currently CS3 does a superb job of locating just the right points to join and makes a breeze out of the process. This can be done from the raw converter interface or after conversion. If done after conversion, all files should be converted with the exact same settings. I have experienced subtle differences in the files after conversion that made the process more difficult. The same files combined in photomerge straight from the Adobe Camera Raw program resolved those issues, don’t ask me why. The stitch line in the un-flattened file may be visible at certain scaled image sizes but will almost always vanish when the file is flattened, so don’t wig out if you see the joint at first glance. 

 

 

Pros and Cons

So, rush right out and buy a fistful of PC lenses? Well, maybe – maybe not. They are fixed focal-length lenses with very high quality optics (and priced to match). The tilt feature is great for macro and other applications, and you can often compose to shift lens flare out of the frame. The Canon 24mm T/S suffers from some chromatic fringing but this easily fixed either in Camera Raw or by easy moves in LAB color space. The main drawback is cost, though zoom lovers will also miss the freedom that zooms afford. Panoramic gear costs quite a bit less, at the expense of more involved set-up, bulk, and weight. Both are tools to help us achieve our personal vision – PC lenses offer a powerful option for us in many ways.

 

About the Author

Nye Simmons has been capturing special natural moments on film since the early 1980’s. His work has been published in regional as well as national publications, books, posters, calendars, and exhibits. You can view more of Nye's work by visiting his Gallery

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